Art Jewelry Glossary

From Art Jewelry Magazine

A

agate
A group of quartz which includes chalcedony, sardonyx, carnelian, chrysoprase, and onyx, that are translucent, porous stones

alloy
A mixture of two or more metallic elements to make the predominant metal more durable

annealing
Heating work-hardened metal to restore malleability

anodize
To change the surface color of a metal by using an electrical current


B

bail
The loop or ring at the top of a pendant by which it hangs

bench pin
A wooden extension of the jeweler’s bench upon which sawing, filing, and forming are done

bezel
A strip of flat wire that surrounds and secures a stone or other object

binding wire
A soft iron or steel wire used to hold objects together and in place during soldering

brooch
An ornamental pin with a straight pin (stem) and a catch which are hidden when it is worn

buffing
The final stage of creating a high polish. Can be done with machines or by hand

burnish
To hand- or machine-polish a metal surface by rubbing it with a polished metal or stone tool (burnisher)

C

cabochon
A stone that has a smooth, rounded surface

cane
A length of polymer clay composed of colored rods that are positioned to create a design; the cane is sliced horizontally to reveal a pattern

carat
A unit of weight used to measure gemstones

casting
A process of creating objects by pouring liquid material into a shaped, hollow mold

chasing
Using a hammer and steel tools to recess and/or reshape metal from the front

conditioning
Preparing polymer clay to make it pliable

convection oven
An oven that uses forced air circulation

cuttlefish bone
The porous, white skeleton of a marine animal, used as a mold in one type of direct casting

D

dapping block
A steel tool (typically a cube) with round, hemispherical depressions used to form domes. The steel rods with matching domes on the ends are called dapping punches

die
A form into which sheet metal is pushed for forming

drawplate
A plate of hardened steel with funnel-shaped holes of diminishing size used to reduce the diameter of wire. The process is called drawing

E

engraving
Using steel tools to remove bits of metal

etching
The controlled corrosion of a metal surface with resists and acids to create a texture or pattern

F

fabrication
Construction from sheet and wire using hand tools

findings/fittings
Elements that render a piece of jewelry wearable, such as catches, pin stems, ear wires, bails, etc.

finish
The final surface treatment on a piece of jewelry

fire
To heat an item until all moisture is gone and the item becomes permanently hard

firescale
A subsurface layer of cupric oxide that forms when copper-bearing alloys are heated

flex shaft
A versatile jewelry-making tool consisting of a precision high-speed motor, 3-foot flexible extension, handpiece, and foot rheostat. It is used for drilling, grinding, sanding, carving, and polishing

flux
Chemicals that prevent oxides from forming when metal is heated

forging
The process of shaping metal primarily through hammering

fusing
Heating two pieces of metal close to their melting points so they bond

G

gauge
A unit of measure describing the thickness of wire or metal; a tool used in measurement

graver
A sharp steel tool used for engraving and stone setting

H

head
A symmetrical prong setting which resembles a claw or small crown and is used to hold faceted gemstones

hinge
A movable joint that turns or swings in a single plane, used to articulate two parts

I

ingot
A unit of metal, typically cast as the first step before milling wire or sheet in a more usable size

inlay
A process by which one material is fitted into a recess in another material


K

karat
A proportional unit used to describe the purity of gold

L

laminate
To superimpose layers of different materials

liver of sulfur
Potassium sulfide; dissolved in water to create a patina on metal

lost wax casting
A process in which a wax model is encased in plaster, the plaster flask is then heated in a kiln to the point where the wax is burnt out, leaving a cavity into which molten metal is poured

M

mallet
A hammer-shaped tool made of a material that will not seriously mar the metal, such as rubber, rawhide, or wood

mandrel
A tapered shaft, usually steel, around which metal is pressed or hammered to change its shape

marbleizing
Combining colors of polymer clay to produce a pattern that resembles marble

mokume gane
A process in which layers of metal are fused together, creating a mokume laminate. The layers are then exposed through etching, filing, and milling

O

oxidize
Metal becoming tarnished or darkened by exposure to oxygen or by the use of chemicals

P

patina
Surface film created on metal for a colored or darkened finish; often used to make texture stand out. Natural patination also occurs through oxidation

pickle
A chemical solution that removes flux residue and oxides from metal; also, dipping something in pickle

piercing
Using a jeweler’s saw to cut shapes from the interior of a sheet of metal

plating
A fine coating of metal deposited on a surface by means of an electric current

polish
The finish of a piece of metal when it has been cleaned of unwanted blemishes and uneven edges or surfaces

punches
Hardened steel tools used to decorate, texture, or form metal


Q

quench
Quickly cooling hot metal in liquid

R

raising
Forcing metal into three-dimensional forms through the use of hammers and stakes

reduction
Shrinking a design to a smaller size; making a polymer cane smaller without distortion

repoussé
Using a hammer and steel tools to shape metal from the back side to create a design in relief

reticulation
Texturing metal by heating it with a torch

rivet
A pin used to mechanically join components without heat or solder. The ends of the pin are spread to keep the parts from coming apart

roll-printing
Using a rolling mill to imprint textures and patterns on sheet metal

rolling mill
A piece of equipment consisting of two parallel, hardened steel cylinders mounted in a sturdy frame, used to reduce the size of sheet stock or wire

S

sinter
To heat particles of metal clay so they fuse together

Skinner blend
Colors of polymer clay combined in a smooth gradation

slip
A liquid mixture composed of water and clay

solder/soldering
A lower-melting-point alloy of the same metal as the workpiece; when heated, solder flows into the spaces between two pieces of metal, forming a bond

stamping
Impressing shapes and textures onto surfaces through the use of hardened steel tools called punches

T

tabs
A cold connection in which fingers or strips of metal are bent over an element to secure it

temper (also malleability)
The hardness of wire and metal. Jewelry-making wire comes in three tempers: hard, half-hard, and dead-soft. Bending or tumbling metal will work-harden it.

torch
An open-flame heat source that can produce temperatures higher than the melting point of the metal being used. Simple one-part torches use compressed gas and atmospheric oxygen; more complex torches combine compressed gas and compressed oxygen to reach higher temperatures

U

upset
To flare the end of a rivet by pounding the metal down on itself

W

work hardening
The characteristic of metals to become rigid and brittle when undergoing forces such as hammering, drawing, bending, rolling, and compressing (see annealing)


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